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The Real Adventure- USA Tournee-
Spring 2004
My
adventure began with my flight from Frankfurt to Boston, on 25.02.04.
Rik Palieri had organized a national tour, starting in Vermont in Montpelier,
with a cd release show. Picture left: Here we are singing some
of the featured songs from the new Balloon Adventure the English version
of my German project. Our new cd features songs and stories about a fantasy
musical voyage round the world. Picture center: I bought this banjo
in Burlington. On my trip I had my own personal banjo teacher; as we traveled
the back roads of America. Rik taught me the basics of the five string
banjo. Picture right: The well-known Blues singer Guy Davis from
New York was in Vermont to tape Rik's TV Show called "The Songwriters
Notebook". After doing the show Guy spent the evening at Rik
and Marianna 's. In the evening we made some music together, trying not
to wake up the sleeping dogs.
After our first
concerts in Vermont we then drove down the highway to Beacon/NY, to visit
with one of Americas true folk legends Pete Seeger. Picture left/picture
center: We were invited by Pete Seeger, to take part in a musical evening
at the Beacon Sloop club. The club is part of the Environmental group called
The Clearwater, an organization that Pete helped create in the late 60s.
My host, Rik Palieri has been a friend of Pete's for about 30 years, so
it was fun to meet one of Rik's early influences and long time friends.
After helping Pete and his wife Toshi prepare the salad, we then went down
to the Sloop club right on the banks of the mighty Hudson River and helped
with the preparations for the evening program. We soon found out that we
were in luck and would not only play some music at the club with Pete and
his friends , but would also be involved in the making of a film by documentary
film producer Jim Brown, who was making a Film about Pete Seeger's life
. Jim cameras rolled as we helped Pete split logs, light the fire-place,
prepare the food, and welcome guests. Before the room filled up we had the
chance to play a few tunes with Pete and his long necked banjo. One of the
special moments took place when Rik and I sang a new version of Pete's most
famous song "Where have all the flowers gone" Pete was delighted
to hear his song sung simultaneously in both German and English. Pete smiled
lifted his head into the sky and sang along. This was a magical moment for
the film crew and they caught it all on film. Later Pete said in an interview
that he wished more young people would realize the simple joys in life like
singing together, instead of just basing their life on the idea of money
making. After a pot luck meal, an informal Jam came to life, filling the
room with wonderful home-made music. Guitars, banjos, and even a little
ukulele strummed away on a variety of old and new songs. The camera man
jumped all round the room trying to catch the spirit. Then Pete sang a song
that even surprised me as it used the melody of an old German Christmas
carol. Soon it was way after 10 o'clock in the evening and Pete's wife Toshi
was busy cleaning up and stacking away the chairs, while we singers tried
to sneak in a few last verses to the song from black blues singer Lead belly
"The Midnight Special" . . As the film team packed up, I realized
that this was a historical evening and an important highlight of our 4000
mile route. But then, it was only the beginning of our American adventure.
Picture right: The largest guitar of the world in Bristol Tennessee,
which contains a museum. Pictured on the Left is Rik's Truck- Camper
Apache For the rest of the trip this would be our home on wheels!
We left Beacon with
our friend Rick Nestler and followed him back to his home in the Catskill
Mountains to perform at a radio show. The next morning. Rick has been another
of Rik's pals for many years from the days, when they both sang as part
of the Hudson River Sloop Singers with Guy Davis and Pete.
Rick now led a jug band with his wife Donna called the Dirty Stay out All
Night
Jug Band. It was fun to join Rick and his friends in the tiny water -powered
radio station that was powered by a near bye waterfall. Inside the station
the room was crammed with guitars and musicians all waiting their turn to
sing a few songs during this live Open mike radio program. In some ways
it seemed more like a doctors office waiting room than a radio station,
as everyone waited to go on the air, but once we all squeezed into the tiny
studio it was worth the wait.
Another fun thing about this day was meeting all the different musicians
who came to play for free. Rik was really surprised when he found out that
the bearded fellow waiting beside him was a very well known song writer
named Jack Hardy. Well you just never know who you are going to meet up
with when you are on the road. Sadly we could not hang out at the station
to hear Jack perform as we had to hit the road for our next show at The
Mine Street Coffee House in New Brunswick NJ. The night was another packed
house !
And then it was an early morning wake up for our first long day on the road
all the way
Down to the Smoky Mountains of North Carolina. By the time we reached the
North
Carolina state line, the sun was going down and it lit up the mountains
with an eerie bright glow. The roads here are so twisted that our truck
weaved back and forth as we crossed over the high mountains. At last we
arrived to meet with Rik's pals "Lindy" and "Victor".
They shared a nice house up a mountain side and invited us to spend the
night. Even though we were tired from our trip after dinner we brought out
our instruments and played a concert just for them. Victor who had lived
in Germany and spoke German, treated us just like family, and lit the fire
place and put down a few mattresses where we could bed down for the night.
In the morning, Victor fixed up a Southern Home cook breakfast complete
with grits, brisket and gravy. After this
Gut-busting breakfast we loaded up 'Apache" and rode out to the music
city of the USA Nashville.
Picture left
and center: Our first goal was to play at the legendary Bluebird Café.
To take part in the Songwriters open mike night. Hours before the café
opened, a long line of singers waited. When the door was opened, we went
in, wrote our names along with the other 64 hopeful singers, knowing that
only 20 of us would be allowed to sing that night. We all
waited hoped and dreamed. Then when names were read out, I found out that
we were some of the lucky ones! Perhaps it was useful that I wrote "Germany"
on the note. For my one song, I sang my new song the "Cell Phone
killer" (Handykiller). As I sang my song, the audience cracked up
with laughter at the funny lyrics and wildly applauded loudly after the
song. As I sang under the blue birds neon light, I felt like it was a
dream, but it was real, for now I could say that Yes I had played in Nashville!
Picture right: In the center of the city, I found the old
buildings more interesting than the modern buildings. On the left of long-drawn-out
brick buildings is old Grand Ole Opry, concert hall, known as "The
Church of Country Music ". Back when Country-western music was born
it's radio signal was so powerful that it reached all across the nation.
As the Grand Old Opry's radio station became famous, more and more musicians
came down from the hills of Appalachia to record and play country music.
The sound of Country soon inspired a legion of fans that reached around
the world. A whole industry sprang up around the center of the city. As
more and more flocked into Music City the stars of Country music needed
more songs. Soon thousands of songwriters flocked into the tiny streets
of Music Row. One of the most famous streets is immortalized by the song
16. Avenue. That goes " So God Bless the Boys that makes the noise
on 16th avenue. " . The song tells of the road that
was once filled up with the small music publishers and production companies.
It was the street where dreams came true. .Sadly today, largely because
of the Internet and MP3s, many of the old companies had to close their
doors or were bought up by the larger companies. An insider told us that
once there were 600 publishers and today there are only 40! Think of that
the next time you burn a CD from your computer. Our host in Nashville
was Bruce Michael Miller and his family. Bruce is an up coming song writer
who is starting to get his songs known in this hard luck town. Bruce's
wife Patricia is now working for a music publishing house called the "Writer's
Zone". While we were in town she gave us a tour of what the publishing
world is like.
Inside the little building there was a few offices of the song writers,
plus a recording room, a conference room for plugging the songs and a
writer's room complete with guitars and a few cases of beer.
Not far from Music row, is the shop of "Manuel", the famed
star fashion designer. He is the man who first dressed Johnny Cash in
Black and while working along with Hollywood's famous designer "Nudie"
put the glitter in the Rhinestone Cowboys. There is hardly a famous artist
in Nashville, which was not fitted out by Manuel. Picture left: Rik
is trying on a custom jacket flag jacket (made for Kid Rock), while his
buddy Susan (A very great song writer) is having fun in a red cowgirl
"Manuel"coat. .While in town Rik managed to get an interview
with Manuel for his TV show: "Songwriters Notebook ".Rik did
the interview while I did the camera work. . Picture center: Manuel
and Wilfried Mengs. After 3 days in Nashville the road called. And we
headed south. Picture right: We drove to the I-40 to Memphis and
from there drove on Highway 61 to the south, to Baton Rouge, for a radio
interview.
Far down pictures
left: On highway 61, The Blues is with you and boy you can feel it down
this old road. The sun burns hot, everything is sharp and slowed down, the
road and the air are cotton-candy sticky, and the old cotton fields, seem
to drag on endlessly from the side of the road. Man, now you are really
in Mississippi!In this area the people grew up and around the Blues and
you can really feel it on this road. . Picture center: We visited
the Blues museum in Clarksdale. Inside you find Pictures of the old
plantation, of the production of the cotton in the land where Cotton was
king. And beside them photos of the hard working, black faces, working the
land in the days of slavery. You can also see the smiling faces of the Afro-Americans
when they were not working; Dancing to beat of the banjo an original African
instrument. Then later photos of hope, Photos of proud black faces playing
music, dressed to the nines, just feeling Fine as wine in summertime!"
Along with the photos are the stories of the music and the legends.
Like the story of BB Kings famous guitar "Lucille". The
story says BB played in a club, with big furnace in the center, which heated
the area. As he played two men began to suddenly fight. Standing near
the furnace, which fell over set the room in a blaze of fire. When
the fire broke out everyone ran for their lives. Suddenly B.B. King noticed
that he had forgotten his guitar. He went straight into the flames and saved
his beloved Lucille. BB found out after the fire, that the two men
were fighting over a woman, who was called Lucille. He named his guitar
after that gal, to remind him never to do a fool thing like running into
a fire again! Picture right: Here I am in Baton Rouge Louisiana.
With Folk DJ Taylor Caffery . Taylor did a fine hour long interview with
us, treated us to a meal of Crab meat and even let us camp out in the radio
station. He put a big sign on the door Gypsies camping in the parking lot,
don't worry they played here last night, and will be gone with the morning
light
Far down it
was getting hot, even though the sun was not even up yet. But when it came
and popped up over the swamps, it lit the road with a pink bright light
that just seem to lay sleeping on the horizon .We followed it all the way
down to New Orleans. We snaked our way around the Mississippi river
and drove straight into the old French Quarter. . These old houses decked
out with the fancy iron fencing and hanging balconies originated back from
the time, when Louisiana was French colony. Traveling through the multicolored
roads with the one-story houses and work of the balcony of fine filigreed
iron, one feels like they might be in Marseilles or even Italy. The people
of the so called "Big Easy" are merry, and cheerful like they
are all living in some kind of never -never party land. . Even at 9 AM the
streets are already filled with happy tourist toting along cameras, taking
snapshots of the horse pulled carriages that line the street in front of
the famous Café Dumont. Picture right: Benyas and strong coffee are
one of the tourist rituals. Even in the morning, jazz music is piping in
from the restaurants, tourists stands, and from the balconies of the old
hotels in the city that never sleeps. . Picture center: An Old paddle
wheeled steamer waiting on the Mississippi.
Friday night. We
searched for a Cajun dance hall. We drove all the way to Mamou the worlds
capital of the Cajun Music. But it was lent, and we did not find any live
music. But we did see acres of moon lit crawfish fields and also saw plenty
of little crawfish bakes. The crawfish (like tiny Lobsters) were running
and they were in season. We had a big batch right in Morgan City and they
were TASTY! Picture left: From Fred's Lounge in Mamou the birth place
of Cajun music. After Mamou we headed west out to Texas to see the Alamo
and play a few shows in the old adobe town of Marfa. Picture center:
In the community radio station of the artist city of Marfa Texas, we
met activist/ cartoonist Gary Oliver. We performed a Show on Monday evening
at Marfa's community radio station. (Picture right) Then went did
a Live Jam session with other musicians. Long live Marfa FREE Radio!
Picture left:
School concert in Presidio at the Mexican border. With over 350
kids, we let our "Balloon Adventure" fly again!! Picture center:
"Home, home on the Range." The silence of the prairie. Picture
right: Seeing the transformations of the landscape are sometimes
hard to describe. With each mile, the landscape became ever more fascinating.
We drove over a hill and it opened up into a large valley. Then we
drove by another valley, over a large mountain range and found that a still
larger valley opened up before us... Naked rock and sand, covered with shrubs,
Canyon cliffs, with our truck just squeezing bye. It is almost indescribable
for those who have not seen this kind of land, you sometimes
cant find the correct words to explain it , except to say that it
is Gods Country.
Picture left:
Looking beyond the usual tourist attractions of Arizona, one could really
recognize some of the true old relics of the old American west in the gun
slinger town of Tombstone. The weather was hot. We rumbled with our cowboy
boots on the wood planks of the sidewalks past the old "Bird Cage Theater"
past old saloons and shops that stood back in the days when miners, sheriffs,
cowboys, desperados, and outlaws walked these very streets. We went to into
the old Courthouse which now is a museum... Built From stone, it lies a
block outside of the main street. In this old building was a museum and
to my surprise a fantastic exhibition to The German Western writer Karl
May. It was very informative for Rik. He finally understood, from where
we Germans get our romantic fascination to the cowboy culture and the American
West. The life history of May was presented with a large display of his
life and the characters, which he created. Our last stop was in Phoenix
Arizona Picture center/picture right: Phoenix from the sand arisen,
approx. 3 million inhabitants, live in this enormous valley.
Picture left:
A Full House at the theatre of the Glandale LIBRARY. Like in all of
our shows, there was no real plan or set list for the concert, but there
was always many surprises and fun in store when we played. Our off the cuff
Folk mix of making music on the different instruments and combining the
cultures of Germany and America always brought us lots of good applause
and helped us to sell many a CD . Picture center: Open air
Banjo workshop in the "Encanto Park." This park was the venue
of the 15th. Phoenix Folk Heritage Festival. This festival
features the roots of American Folk music. It is also one of the few true
folk festivals left in the country where everyone is a star everyone feels
a part of the event .Picture right: Bernd Haeber and Wilfried Mengs,
the supervisors of the DAFT route (German American Folk saenger- treffen),
before an artificial lake with island in the center of Encanto park".
After the festival
the end of our magical journey had been reached. 4300 miles driven,
30 eventful days, with many new insights to this large and diverse land.
On my long plane ride home I sat back and reflected and meditated on our
big adventure.
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